After a rainy night in the “Bear Camp” – a small campsite near the Plitvica National Park I start the day a bit hesitant. I have decided against a visit to the park and hope but for a few beautiful views from the road. Unexpectedly, I find myself an hour and some altitude meters later nevertheless in the park. As a cyclist one has apparently facilitated access directly from the road. On wooden foot pathways 1000s of visitors are led daily here over the deep blue lakes. I treat myself to a short tour of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. My route on outdooractive.com leads me right after the lakes again away from the highly occupied road – to a road with a prohibition sign and the inscription “access only for the local population”. As a cyclist I include myself as part of them and within minutes I find myself on a winding road through a beautiful forest. The old beech trees seem to whisper and speak and I dive into this living forest lung. For ten kilometers the road winds through the green and after a first small hamlet I meet Anja and Carlos. They are also Swiss and amazed we compare the seemingly random route finding of our respective orientation apps. We cycle a bit further together, drink a coffee together in a smoky village bar and enjoy the short exchange before I set off to bring a few more kilometers on the wheels today. The sky has broken up in the meantime, the landscape as well. The endless forest has made way for loose agriculture. Everyone seems to keep a few sheep for meat, two cows for milk and the obligatory chickens. Again and again the animals are in small groups moving around without any fencing.
After I have bought some tomatoes and potatoes for my dinner, I ask Yasipe if I could pitch my tent under the roof. “Mosche mosche,” I am quickly told. No problem and a little later she serves me noodle soup, cold cuts and bread. With her husband I drink a home-brewed Plum schnapps and so I sleep this night safely and deeply.
The next day brings me a good 90 km further, in the end in pouring rain. Irfan and Svetlana take a soaked cyclist with them and spoil me like a daughter. To warm up there is the obligatory home brew and for the strength a delicious dinner. Later I sit with a glass of Croatian red wine in their kitchen and we talk with the help of Google Translate. The hospitality is far from finised. The next morning, the four of us go for coffee and then there’s a little tour of the surrounding area. At regular intervals Branko stops the car and I am asked to take a picture. After the stop at the supermarket, I am presented with Jaffa and chocolate; refreshment for the onward journey. I am touched, honored and will remember this warm encounter.
The ride on this day is also a highlight. I pedal over a small pass in the Velebit Park. High, white Karst rocks tower on both sides of the road. I cross the pass and am amazed: A totally new landscape opens up in front of me! A warm wind blows towards me, there is no trace of autumn, but I smell pines, cedars and fig trees, instead of small-leaved shrubs olive trees grow and in the clay colored plain in front of me deep blue lakes and rivers can be recognized. This abrupt change is completely surreal and unexpected. From now on I am in the Mediterranean!
In Benkovac I am very spontaneously invited by Nikola for a beer and a snack and I continue go to the sea! Suddenly I find myself between legions of prawn colored tourists and search for a hidden overnight place in an olive grove. But Petar and his dog Bella discover me and before I know it, I am invited for a shower and a coffee the next morning. Unbelievable that in such a touristic place still people like Petar can be found. He lives his life quietly among all the caravans and vacationers and has to come to terms with the fact that craftsmen like him are not allowed to do any noisy work during the summer months. His family’s little house has been here since 1918; back then there were no car camps and bar miles. Every morning he goes fishing with his small boat, but today there was “no fish”.
The way continues on the main road along the coast. At least the Germans know how to overtake cyclists decently! Somewhat desperately I look for a place in the evening. Wild camping seems to be more difficult here. But once again I am lucky! Just in time I meet Alexis from Patagonia; also with heavily packed bike on the road. We decide to stay overnight at the same place and spend a very cozy evening at a wonderful spot. Wild camping is definitely more pleasant for me with company!